18th century – The Age of Vanity
Men’s fashion in the 18th century was sumptuous and colourful. In this context, jewellery too was precious and lavish detail. Buckles with gemstones for shoes and belts, rings on the fingers, gold watch chains and snuffboxes, gold or enamel objects decorated with portraits or coats of arms often surrounded by diamonds and other precious stones.
From the Gentleman’s Closet to Fluidity
In our century, jewellery has returned to prominence, worn on every occasion—from necklaces to bracelets, rings to earrings. Cufflinks have become more noticeable, while pins and pendants reappear, thanks to jewellery and fashion houses. This raises the question: do men’s and women’s jewels still exist, or are there simply jewels, worn by whoever chooses to wear them?
Rock influence
In the last decade of the 20th century, gold or platinum chains with diamond-studded pendants became symbols of American hip-hop culture.
Yuppies
The 1980s witnessed a true revival of men’s jewellery. The formal yet exaggerated style adopted by yuppies (young urban professionals)—ambitious young careerists pursuing rapid wealth—featured pinstriped suits, often double-breasted, with broad shoulders, paired with high-collared, short-pointed shirts (often striped or two-toned), wide ties, and suspenders. Accessories included tie clips, cufflinks, and wristwatches.
Towards Unisex
The 1970s were a time of great artistic creativity, and jewellery and watchmaking reflected this drive to experiment with new forms and materials. Male jewellery of the decade also included mechanically inspired designs, geometric brooches and bracelets matching fashion trends that proclaimed “masculine” lines. Men wore not only classic cufflinks but also bracelets, rings, tie clips, brooches, pendants, cigarette cases, pipe cleaners, money clips, and keychains as part of the gentleman’s wardrobe. Equally iconic were the colourful bead necklaces worn by 1960s hippies and the gold chains with pendants that boomed during the Disco Music era.
Peacock Revolution
After decades of little change in men’s fashion, the 1960s brought extraordinary innovations. Artistic imagery and music strongly influenced clothing, which became increasingly colourful, unisex, and oriental-inspired. These trends also extended to jewellery, which grew larger, more colourful, and drew inspiration from abstract art.
The 1950s Gentleman
With the post-war return of refined elegance, men began paying renewed attention to jewellery. While the range of items did not differ greatly from earlier decades, new forms and inspirations emerged, often linked to sports passions, club membership, or even favourite beverages. Alongside classic cufflinks, pins, and tie clips, playful and informal pieces became popular.
Rationalism and Rigour
With the general rationing of fabrics and raw materials, strict guidelines were introduced: single-breasted jackets only, no double-breasted; limited lapels and pockets; less fabric in trousers and no turn-ups. Men relied on clothes they already owned or reworked military uniforms, creating a style reminiscent of service wear. Jewellery from this period was inspired by war themes and, in some cases, explicitly or symbolically celebrated peace.
The Déco Allure
The term Déco generally refers to jewellery created in the 1920s and 1930s in a highly iconic style. These jewels often combined materials such as platinum, gold, coloured stones, semi-precious stones, onyx, and pearls. Their spectacular quality lay in their distinctive geometric forms—triangles, squares, and circles—making them instantly recognisable. The fashion influence of Diaghilev’s Russian Ballets, hugely popular in Paris, introduced an exotic, oriental-inspired aesthetic. This translated into jewellery through bold colour contrasts and designs recalling oriental motifs.
Belle Époque Elegance
In the early 20th century, the jewellery tradition was represented by the greatest jewellers in history. Rings became more elaborate, watch chains were visible on clothing, shirt cufflinks became richer, and ties featured ornate pins and tie clips. Jewellery from the early 20th century is known as “garland style” due to its floral motifs and festoon shapes; bows, interlaced ribbons, hearts and paired hearts were also widespread motifs. Platinum was the preferred metal, with pearls and diamonds used to match its purity, avoiding strong contrasts. Settings became lighter, with delicate openwork collars and nearly invisible prongs that allowed stones to capture more light.
19th century – The Sobriety of the “Great Renunciation”
In parallel with the imposed sobriety of fashion, jewellery in the long 19th century remained precious but discreet: buttons, tie pins, and accessories such as walking sticks with gold and gem-studded handles. During this century, jewellery took on various styles. The archaeological style that emerged mid-century revived forms and techniques reminiscent of Etruscan, medieval, and Renaissance jewellery. Art Nouveau jewellers reflected the fluidity of the movement’s characteristic shapes in their ornaments,
using gold and silver combined with semi-precious stones and enamels whose delicately translucent quality coloured jewellery surfaces.
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